SWOT Product Challenge:Shampoo

Ever had a product that you thought was a mainstay staple in your bathroom cupboard, but found another that was so good that it gave the old one a run for its money?

Today's Product Challenge is shampoos. I've never found a decent shampoo that worked wonders for my hair, until I found Oscar Blandi's Shampoo Alla Cream Shampoo For Chemically Treated Hair.
This shampoo was the first purchase I made when I first joined LHCF. I didn't see many good reviews on the board about it, but I decided to take a chance on a NEW brand from a noted stylist who I wasn't sure had experience with black hair care.
Before I bought my baby, I had spent my life poo-hopping from Paul Mitchell to Sensitive By Nature to Sauve--nothing worked. All those shampoos just dried my hair out and caused extreme breakage.
Granted, at the time, I didn't know as much about maintaining my hair on my own as I do now, so I was very subject to over washing and deep conditioning with too much protein. Eventually I decided to leave the wash to the professionals and spent every weekend and every cent in the swivel chair.
When a friend referred me to the forum, and a couple others, I decided to make the big purchase of:

* Carol's Daughter Healthy Hair Butter
* Carol's Daughter Hair Milk
* Aveda's Sap Moss Shampoo and Conditioner
* Miss Jessie's Curly Pudding Curly Meringue

Since you have not seen me raving about these products in the blog, it’s obvious that they didn't work well at all. But, The Oscar Blandi had the staying power. Since I purchased the conditioner, I have replaced it several times with other substitutes (its not really that hard to find a good rinse out conditioner). The shampoo is another story.
Most shampoos just take away from my hair, leaving it dull, dry, or still dirty. Most are too harsh to use more than once a week (in the case of a hair emergency, like gum or egg getting stuck my hair) or deposit too much unto my scalp.
After telling you the back-story of my love affair with Oscar Blandi's Shampoo Alla Crema, I never thought I wouldn't find something that would rival it. Today, I decided to wash my hair with the Phytospecific Intense Nutrition Shampoo sample that I got from Sephora, and I really liked it. So, lets do a quick analysis and compare the pros- and cons of both 'poos to see if one can trump the other.
You might wonder why I would even want to switch if I found something that works best for me. Well, with hair growth come different needs. Companies change formulas all the time; bottles get bigger or smaller, active ingredients are added or taken away. Sometimes, I just want something a little different. As my hair grows, it requires different attention, and you're techniques are only as good as the products you use, while the product you use are only as good as your techniques. If I can maintain a fine balance between the two, then there's nothing wrong with switching it up every once in a while.

Besides, I am a beauty blogger--what did you expect?
I am a PR major, so I'm going to do this the same way we were taught to analyze companies for brainstorming: SWOT. Strength, weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats. It’s always a good idea to re-evaluate your staples before purchasing another product. Sometimes SWOT can show how they are lacking, and sometimes a SWOT can show you that what you have is everything you need. Also, don't be afraid to chuck something out or sell it for not working the way it promised to. You are the consumer, they made a promise unto you to work just as they formulate to.

Phytospecific Intense Nutrition Shampoo, $25
Introduction, 5.07 oz:
The PhytoSpecific Intense Nutrition Shampoo is ideal for hair that has been altered by color, relaxers and/or curl perms. Its surfactants or cleansing bases are plant derived, which allows for removal of the excess oils and impurities, while fortifying the hair shaft. One of the key benefits, of using this shampoo, is in the replenishment that it offers of essential nutrients, which are lost during the application of color, relaxers, and/or curl perms. This is a great shampoo for porous, fine hair; 3a-5a hair type.


Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Calendula Officinalis, Sambucus Nigra, Comfrey (Symphytum Officinal), Hibiscus Sabdariffa Extracts, Sodium Laureth-11 Carboxylate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Lauryl Glucoside, Ricinoleamidopropyl, Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Peg-4 Rapeseedamide, Acacia Dealbata Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane, Kukui (Aleurites Moluccana) Nut Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Nut Oil, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Panthenol, Fragrance, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Parabens (Ethyl, Butyl), Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, FD&C Orange #4.

Strength: Very Moisturizing. I couldn't believe how soft and easy it was for my hair to detangle in the shower. I love the ingredients, especially the Hibiscus, Macadamia Nut Oil and the Pathenol. My ends were sooo soft and hydrated.

Weaknesses: The smell. Ugh! So standard. I was expecting something a little more exotic and reviving of the senses so that my hair not only flowed well, but smelled amazing when it moved. Instead, I got shampoo that WREEKED of the hospital or cheap hotels. I did see some breakage after I rinse my conditioner out, but I think my hair was dry because of the excessive protein. When you add this shampoo (which has Panthenol and Wheat Protein ), a molasses a mild protein conditioner (Profectiv Growth Masque) and Mizani Fulfyl together, you are bound to have hair that a little dry. I mixed my Mizani Moisturefuse with some honey and coconut oil and heated under the dryer for 25 minutes, rinse and say softness again.

Opportunities: Sold in Sephora and HoneyFig.
The brand is formualted especially for the care of black hair.
Still new, so there are not many bad reviews on this product.

Threats: I do not like the parabens and the chemicals with the extensively long names. K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple, Stupid.
I hate the smell.
I can easily overdose my hair with protein with this product.
The price is a bit much.

Shampoo Alla Crema Shampoo For Chemically Treated Hair, $20
Introduction
8.45 oz:
Water, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Decyl Glucoside, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide Mea, Glycol Distearate, Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine Lactate, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Benzophenone-4, Dimethicone Copolyol, Polyquaternium-7, Fragrance, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf (Aloe Vera) Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera (Sea Kelp) Extract, Geranium Maculatum Leaf (Geranium) Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf (Green Tea) Extract, PEG-30 Castor Oil, PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Glycerin, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Methylparaben, PEG-150 Distearate, Diazolidinyl Urea, Disodium EDTA, Yellow 5, Yellow 6.

Shampoo Alla Crema Shampoo is a moisture-infused shampoo based on sea-algae that helps protect and hydrate hair, restoring it to its natural, healthy state. It not only infuses your hair with an abundance of moisture, it actually locks that moisture into your hair to improve the hair's elasticity and vitality, as it restores light reflection required for shine. When your shampoo has this much moisture, you don't have to depend on your conditioner to do all of the work!

Strength: It detangles like a dream and leaves my hair super-duper soft. I remember I used this shampoo at least three times a week (before I knew about conditioner-washing) and I didn't see breakage. Its my old faithful. If I have peanut-butter and honey stuck in my hair or my its on a regular weekend wash day, I know I can rely on this shampoo to help me out.

Weakness: Smells like crappy, cheap shampoo. The shampoo needs a strong, and less-generic fragrance. Although, it works pretty well with any conditioner, I prefer it with the Allah Cream conditioner by Oscar Blandi. I wish it came in a bigger bottle for the price, but the bottle did last for a year.

Opportunity: Sold in Sephora stores everywhere and online store ships quickly.
Run by popular stylist to celebrities.
Use a couple of organic ingredients.
Threats: Surprisingly enough, the shampoo works really well for one with sulfates. Trying to purchase the shampoo and conditioner can be very costly. It doesn't exactly have the purest or safest ingredients in the shampoo.

Date with Giovanni Direct Leave-in

I first found out about this product (as with most) on LHCF I was having relative success with my Africa's Best Organics Hair Mayonnaise Leave-in.My friend kept raving about how it left her hair smooth during her phase of co-washing and air drying, and even as I speak I have noticed a big change.
I was apprehensive to buy this at first because I didn't like the price of the Giovanni Direct leave-in ($7.99) compared to the price of Africa's Best Organics--a bargain at $1.99.
I wasn't sure how well this viscous jelly substance would seal of the cuticles in my hair. I mean, won't it just harden and clog my already fragile pores?
Plus, didn't want to switch to another product and reignite my PJ-ism all over again (hell, that is what sponsors are for!). But I decided to throw caution to the wind and splurge a little...Especially, since there was a total HOTTIE flirting with my at my local Vitamin Shoppe.
With the first application I noticed a change in my hair and instantly KNEW I was in love. My hair separated with ease--no combing needed. When I went to bed that night and woke in the morning, my tresses were as soft as cashmere. Money well spent, and everyday is as if I'm reliving my first date with Giovanni.
This product doubles as a hair gel for naturals or curly styles, a datangler for co-washing and a moisturizer; its like the picket Swiss Army key chain for your hair. I don't know what I would do without my Giovanni leave-in.
One of my favorite attributes of this products is the softness it gives my air-dried or heat-styled hair. For me, my biggest vice was crunchy roller set, and I know the air in the room can do that to my strands.
But with my leave-in, my hair just soaks it up and dries with a gorgeous healthy glow. A little goes a long way.

Extra tip: Run Coconut oil over your hair after using this product for a supermodel gloss and healthy glow to your tresses.


Poll Question:
what other products from the Giovanni line would you ladies recommend?

Hairvolution: Keyshia Cole

I'm sure you all remember crooner, Keyshia Cole, when she first came unto the scene. This Los Angeles-native was a little rough around the edges, to say the very least. With the large tattoos and the cutoffs shorts, I wasn't sure how society was going to accept her. My first thought when I saw her in the "I Changed My Mind" video was another hood girl with a one-hit wonder...when will good soul music be back?
Then, I gave Miss Cole's another chance and purchased her CD. Two years later, I still cannot put her CD down. The only tracks I don't like off of her The Way It Is is "Situation" and the way and "Superstar," but the rest is ol' school Solid Gold.
People latched unto Keyshia, like flies to light bulb, because of her brutal honesty. Every track on her CD sounds as if Keyshia is speaking personally to you, reminding you to keep your head up and not let the pitfalls of love affect your future success.
Fall of 2007 mark the release of her sophomore disc, Just Like You, where Cole takes you out of the neighborhood and into a whole new sound of soul. Soft. Melodic. Romantic and sweet.
Her reality show just aired its second-season premiere episode, Keyshia Cole:The Way It Is on BET, solidifying its stance as one of the network's most-watched shows.
Since Keyshia has come up into new money--living lavish in the suburbs of Atlanta, GA.--her style has changed. She went from urban ruffian to sophisticated princess. After all, only Keyshia is seriously the only one who would be willing to attempt the two-toned feathered, died and schallack'd-to-the-side hair look (except Cruella De Ville).
Now rocking the long digits in her bank account, her failed relationship with Young Jeezy isn't the only thing she has left in the past. Lets look at Cole's Hairvolution: Where she came from and where's she's at.

WIN FREE HAMADI SHAMPOO!

For the month of November, I am giving away two bottles of Hamadi Lemon Mint Shampoo. Register in the sidebar section of the site. The winner will be announced on Saturday, the 24th of November. The items can also be purchased at HoneyFig.com

Although suggested for color treated hair, this gentle cleansing hair wash has many calming and healing ingredients. Infused with Peppermint (to calm), Green Mint (to soothe), White Cedar (to heal), and Lemongrass (to enhance and hold color) this Hair Wash protects against build-up, chlorine discoloration and seals in your existing color. The wash also doubles as an aroma flora body wash.

Purified Water (Aqua), Coco-Glucoside, Glycerin (Vegetal), Coco-Betaine, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glyceryl Oleate, Cellulose Gum, Lecithin, Hydrolysed Wheat Proteins, Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Extract, Sodium Thiosulfate, Citric Acid, Mint (Mentha Viridis) Oil*, Grapefruit Seed (Citrus Grandis) Extract, Lemongrass (Cymbopogon Flexuosus) Oil**, Potassium Sorbate, Peppermint (Mentha Piperita) Oil*, White Cedar (Thuja Occidentalis) Oil*, Lemon (Citrus Limonum) Oil*, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex. *From organically grown (ECOCERT) or wild crafted plants.

A Scientist's Story: The Beauty Brains on Leave-ins and Rinse-outs

What’s The Difference Between Rinse Out And Leave In Conditioners

Mari Murmers:
Hi Beauty Brains, Thanks for all the info, its really fantastic! What the difference is between regular conditioner and leave-in conditioner? I’ve been putting a little bit of conditioner on after I’ve toweled off my hair and all (except Pantene) seem to work better that way for my curly hair.

The Right’s Really Righteous Reply:
If you’re asking if it’s ok to use little bit of rinse out conditioner and leave it in your hair, the answer is yes as long as it leaves your hair looking and feeling the way you want.

Rinse out conditioners are typically made with heavier ingredients (and they generally conditioner better) because they contain a combination of “fatty” chemicals and high molecular weight silicones.

You don’t usually find these ingredients in leave in conditioners because they weigh the hair down too much.

Now, if you have hair that’s really thirsty for conditioning, all bets are off. And while most leave ins don’t make very good rinse out products (because they’re not designed to stay on the hair after rinsing), many rinse outs could work well as a leave in.

Two things to watch out for:
1) Make sure you only apply to the ends of your hair and don’t use too much or your hair will get greasy.

2) If you have sensitive skin, the ingredients and fragrance used in the rinse out product MAY cause irritation if left on too long. If you experience irritation, stop using the product entirely!

The Brain’s Bottom Line:
Rinse out and Leave in products are formulated to have different functionality, but they can overlap. If it makes your hair happy, feel free to leave in a rinse out.

Get Coco for coconuts!

Coconut oil is nature's own beauty perfector. Also known as coconut butter, this oil was first exported in the 1860s by south sea merchants coming to and from Asia. Most of it comes from the Philippines, but the oil itself is used by women all over South and East Asia. Coconut oil is penetrates skin and hairs outer layers to moisturize and strengthen with its string of medium chain trigylcerides.

Previously published results showed that both in vitro and in vivo coconut oil (CNO) treatments prevented combing damage of various hair types. Using the same methodology, an attempt was made to study the properties of mineral oil and sunflower oil on hair. Mineral oil (MO) was selected because it is extensively used in hair oil formulations in India, because it is non-greasy in nature, and because it is cheaper than vegetable oils like coconut and sunflower oils. The study was extended to sunflower oil (SFO) because it is the second most utilized base oil in the hair oil industry on account of its non-freezing property and its odorlessness at ambient temperature. As the aim was to cover different treatments, and the effect of these treatments on various hair types using the above oils, the number of experiments to be conducted was a very high number and a technique termed as the Taguchi Design of Experimentation was used. The findings clearly indicate the strong impact that coconut oil application has to hair as compared to application of both sunflower and mineral oils. Among three oils, coconut oil was the only oil found to reduce the protein loss remarkably for both undamaged and damaged hair when used as a pre-wash and post-wash grooming product. Both sunflower and mineral oils do not help at all in reducing the protein loss from hair. This difference in results could arise from the composition of each of these oils. Coconut oil, being a triglyceride of lauric acid (principal fatty acid), has a high affinity for hair proteins and, because of its low molecular weight and straight linear chain, is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft. Mineral oil, being a hydrocarbon, has no affinity for proteins and therefore is not able to penetrate and yield better results. In the case of sunflower oil, although it is a triglyceride of linoleic acid, because of its bulky structure due to the presence of double bonds, it does not penetrate the fiber, consequently resulting in no favorable impact on protein loss.
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/sites/entrez?db=pubmed&uid=12715094&cmd=showdetailview&indexed=google

The people of Sri Lanka and Indian use this oil to cool and soothe the scalp and moisturize and scent the hair. Look for these products with coconut oil as its base.